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During this time period, Apple made a few changes to the MacBook Pro model. The chassis of the inch model was slimmed down, matching the inch model. The lower-end model included only integrated graphics. In , the inch and inch MacBook Pros were updated with Intel Broadwell processors, Iris graphics, more battery life, faster flash storage and RAM, and increased battery life. Here's what you need to know about upgrading a to MacBook Pro. In , the MacBook Pro lineup underwent significant changes, including the introduction of Retina versions of the inch and inch models.
In the inch models, the Intel HD Graphics integrated graphics card powered the graphics. Here's what you need to know about upgrading a MacBook Pro. October saw the introduction of inch, inch, and inch MacBook Pro models. The models had only a short run and were discontinued in June All models in this era used the Sandy Bridge series of Intel processors in the i5 and i7 configurations, with speed ratings from 2. RAM and hard drives were considered user upgradeable. Here's what you need to know about upgrading a late MacBook Pro.
Here's what you need to know about upgrading a mid MacBook Pro. In June , the MacBook Pro line updated with a new inch model and a speed bump in processor performance for the inch and inch models. The other change in mid was a standard case design for all unibody MacBook Pros.
The inch and inch models previously used different case arrangements, requiring a unique upgrade guide for each model. Originally only the inch model used the unibody construction. However, Apple followed up in February with a unibody inch model.
As it did with the previous versions of the MacBook Pro, Apple continued to use the Intel Core 2 Duo processors, although at slightly higher operating frequencies. The new unibody design allowed both the hard drive and RAM to be user-upgradeable. The inch and inch models use a slightly different method to access the hard drive and RAM modules, so consult the correct user guide before performing any upgrades.
Here's what you need to know about upgrading a late and early MacBook Pro. Starting in October , Apple updated the inch and inch MacBook Pro models with the Intel Core 2 Duo processor, a bit processor, which makes these good upgrade candidates. Extend the effective lifetime of one of these MacBook Pros by adding memory or a larger hard drive, or by replacing the optical drive.
These early MacBook Pro models offered a wealth of upgrade options, including those sanctioned by Apple as user upgradeable and those that are DIY projects that Apple never intended users to perform. Memory and battery replacement are both sanctioned user upgrades that are easy to perform. Upgrading hard drives isn't sanctioned, but if you want to go ahead with this process on one of these models, it's not difficult. Here's what you need to know about upgrading a late through mid MacBook Pro.
The inch and inch MacBook Pros introduced in the spring and summer of were the first pro-level notebooks from Apple to use Intel processors. These MacBook Pros used 1. As it did with other early Intel-based Macs, Apple used the Yonah processor family, which supports bit operation.
Because of the bit limit, you may want to consider updating to a newer model rather than upgrading this model of MacBook Pro. As with other models, Apple sanctions memory and battery-replacement upgrades for these MacBook Pros. Apple doesn't sanction user-performed hard drive upgrades or optical drive replacements, but these aren't difficult to do.
Here's what you need to know about upgrading the MacBook Pro models. By Tom Nelson Tom Nelson. Tweet Share Email. In This Article Expand. About MacBook Pro Upgrades. You can safely clean the aluminum cover and small flat areas of the computer, like the battery or the hard drive, but leave the electronics alone and don't touch them with your cloth. After taking the cover off, don't stack it on top of the exposed parts of the computer, find another clean spot for it on the table.
That little board, approximately 1 x 3 inches with chips on it and surrounded by plastic is your computer's RAM. These are usually green, but you may encounter blueish or dark red colors as well. If you're replacing RAM, then in most cases you'll have to get rid of what's in there. To remove old ram, place two fingers on the plastic springs on both sides of the RAM board and push them outwards.
It should not require any force at all, just gently push them simultaneously. The RAM board should pop up, as it's spring loaded from beneath. Gently take it on both sides and pull out. Then repeat the procedure for the second board one layer deeper. Don't grab the RAM by the chips. It's a good time to clean dust from the ram socket, which might have settled in that area and you don't want to be pushing it deeper when installing new modules.
If you don't have compressed air in cans, then rather don't use anything else. DO NOT use air out of air compressors used to drive pneumatic tools , it will damage your computer. Now we're finally getting to it! Unpack your new RAM and, gently holding the modules by the sides, first insert them into the socket at an angle and then push down until it clicks.
Ram modules have a single cutout on one side to give you a clue on how to insert them. Only one side will work. Do not apply any force, modules must slide into position smoothly. At this stage I recommend to do something unusual -- boot your computer to check that it accepted the new RAM and doesn't report any errors.
In order to do that, very carefully lift it, open the lid and set it on the side. Don't lay it down on the open bottom. When the chime sounds in the very beginning of the boot process, it means that the hardware test has passed. Nevertheless, let it boot completely and then just shut it down before you continue working on it. If you hear a sound of a broken glass right after you press the power button, then something is wrong either with the RAM, or with the way you installed it. After testing it, lay the computer back on it's display lid in the same orientation you had it before so that you're not confusing placement of the screws.
Very carefully place the aluminum cover without touching on any internal parts -- hinge side goes first. It just has to snap easily into place. If it feels like pushing on something then stop immediately, open it up and make sure you didn't leave any objects behind -- no force is applied at any stage in this job. If not used, over time you'll start loosing screws from the bottom of your computer. Thread locker can be purchased at any hardware store. Put a drop of it anywhere on the cardboard and dip the very tip of every screw before you put it in.
After dipping them in thread locker, install the screws one by one, but don't tighten them up just yet, especially if your computer has been dropped and deformed any parts. You'll finally tighten the screws after all of them are in their respective places and the lid is in its proper position. Everyone seems to have a different technique when it comes to putting in small screws. I usually use the pointing finger of my left hand to press the screw against the screwdriver.
Once you have all of the screws in their places, examine the position of the aluminum cover and tighten the screws with some moderate amount of force and you're DONE. Boot the computer up and check "About This Mac" to verify that the expected amount of RAM is recognized by the computer. I found some for 13" but I have a 15". Reply 5 years ago.
Will this affect any saved files in anyway? Both memory- but yeah just lost. All I know is my Mac needs a boost. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. This will not affect your saved files. RAM is just temporary storage, and it's erased every time you turn your computer off.
If you have a non-Retina, it should still be possible. As long as you properly shut down the computer, you should be safe with battery plugged in. If you still want to unplug the battery, be sure not damage the battery connector -- it's kinda fragile. Hi Doctor Jazz, what is it you're plugging you anti-static wrist band into?
I have a band but nothing to attach it to in my work area and something like that could be very useful. Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. There's a slot for it on the mat the black plastic thing on the corner; need to remove the alligator clip first. If you're not using a mat, you can also clip the wrist band to the chassis the metal case of the computer in which case leave the alligator clip on. The anti-static mat is the better way to go, though.
All mats should have a place to plug wrist bands in on one of the corners. If you live in a dry area, use a water-based lotion on your wrist first to increase the electrical contact with your skin. Hope this helps. Great, well done Instructable. Clear,concise, well illustrated- couldn't have been done better! Thank you. Reply 10 years ago on Introduction.
By Doctor Jazz Follow. More by the author:. Let's get started! Connect the ground wire of your anti-static mat to a ground prong of any electric plug. Thread locker I'll explain how to use these tools along the way. You'll need to install both of them, bottom one first of course :.
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I have an early Macbook Pro 13" Retina display, GHZ Intel I am a programmer and would like to upgrade to 16 GB RAM, but I know. Crucial Memory and SSD upgrades - % Compatibility Guaranteed for apple MacBook Pro (Retina, inch, Early ). MacBook Pro with Touch Bar (). Memory Upgradeable: No. *Increasing RAM on Retina MacBooks Pro. Upgrading the memory on.