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Love for going where you shouldn't. The MagSafe connector was already frayed free of the wire on my charger. But I did not have near enough wire to solder back onto. The aesthetically pleasing body of the connector needs to come off. Out come the pliers Slide lock in my case to crush it off. Be careful not to damage the magnetic metal contact up front. We will still need to dig into this further to expose enough wire to solder to. You guessed it. This case is also molded or epoxied shut.
No tabs to even break, so go at the seams with a screw driver. You may choose not to chew yours up as much as I did, but i don't care much for this over-designed block. An average power charger is a pretty average task for most companies, this is what happens when you apply "form over function" design.
Underneath where the plug prongs slide in I found a weak spot where the seams have some give. If i had a thinner screwdriver I may have been able to avoid the next step. I used an exacto knife to shave the seam wider to slide my screwdriver in.
Once in, give it a bit of a twist and the seam should crack open. This was a very noisy process for me. This is where slow and delicate can save you a lot of cosmetic damage, but that was not my priority. Work around the case cracking the seams apart, being careful not to actually crack the case.
Pretty much a clam-shell design so once its free it should slide off easily. The stress relief did save the connection where the wires were soldered into the circuit board inside. Also, there is not much room to maneuver an iron at the contact points. Individual mileage may vary.
Shave bits and chunks out to expose the wires underneath. Be careful to damage as little of the wiring as possible or you may have to end up soldering directly to the circuit board and there is not much room to maneuver in there. Re-strip your wires for soldering back together. There is an inner coated wire and and outer uncoated wire, they are pretty obvious. Please, Please , be careful and try not to cut yourself. Don't let this charger beat you. You may opt to unsolder the frayed wire at this step and solder directly to the circut board.
I even recomend using aftermarket wire here because the mac wire is quite lame. I chose to cut, strip, clean, and tin the existing wires on both sides of the joint. Tape or use heat shrink tubing on this joint. Remember not to leave too much extra wire around the joint because we are going to stuff it all into the case before closing it up. You may opt to super glue epoxy your case shut. I just snapped it back as well as possible and gave it a healthy dose of electrical tape in case I ever need to check on my solder joints.
I also tightly wrapped about and 1. I removed the rubbery plastic that is used to secure the joints enough so that I had something to solder to soldering iron melting and exacto surgery. Split the outer sheath wire into two equal groups and tin them to connect to the two points on the MagSafe. Solder your connections and use electrical tape on the unshielded wires to protect from shorts.
I used hot glue, making sure to apply at least the first large blob all once in one blast to ensure uniformity. In reality i think that I always pull on the cord to unplug the charger so I opted for hot glue hoping it would take better straight on yanks vs shrink tubing's side-to-side protection who knows though. If you use heat shrink tubing instead which I have had good results with in the past make sure you slip it on before you start!
Congrats on fixing a problem Apple should have never had! Please send me your ideas on how to make this a more friendly process, I would be very interested. Its curious to because this could be a potentially dangerous flaw too. Reply 1 year ago. Once you've got the case open, it's simple to solder in the new cable.
There are lots of tutorials on how to do this. Thanks, and I agree about the poor ruggedness. I pretty much just heated up the solder joint and ran the solder sucker on each joint once and then heated them up and pulled at the same time and they came right out. Once I got the wires unsoldered, this is what I was left with:. For a record of the cord lengths sticking through the grommet I traced the cord as it stuck through the grommet so I could size it correctly.
This is what it looked like:. Now you can remove the cord from the rubber grommet and trim off the fraying portion of cord. You can pull off the ferrite bead and clean off the glue they used to secure it. Pull out the wires from the rubber grommet. You can see what mine looked like above. Be careful not to pull the heat shrink off the ground wire when you are pulling it through like I did the first time. Length-wise it should look like what I traced on the paper above. This means to simply put some solder on the bare wire ends so they are easier to solder once you put them into the board.
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Super glue would work but all mine was dried up so, for now, I decided to use zip ties. Place one vertically and one horizontally and the case will stay together:. Now back to business. I hope this helps you. Tags from the story. I love questions and comments and respond to all. Please make sure to check the "Notify me of new comments via email" box below before clicking "Post Comment" to be notified when you receive a response.
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Learn how to repair a damaged AC Adapter cable. Take the cable that connects to your mac book and carefully peel it off with a knife or a wire stripper. If you're really in a pinch to fix up your MacBook charging cable, then dig out an old roll of electrical tape and get tapin'!. It may not look. Whether or not your product is in or out of warranty, you can take your adapter to an Apple Authorized Service Provider or Apple Retail Store.