Trumpeter 01585

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The normally open cab of the halftrack was enclosed in an armored shield to protect the driver though this enclosure also partially limited the traverse of gun. These weapon systems were used in and in the Polish and French blitzes before experience led to improved versions of this mobile gun system.

In true Trumpeter fashion, here is another variant of the Sd. We've seen a few other variants including the DB10 Gepanzerte but we'll be seeing the basic Sd. In the meantime, this kit provides a preview of things to come. Molded in desert tan styrene, this kit is presented on 14 parts trees plus 10 trees molded in rust-colored styrene, two frets of photo-etched details, and one turned aluminum 8. The kit nicely replicates the early war designs that were fielded before combat experience led to stowage, armored shields, ventilation, and other factors that were more common in late-war armored vehicles.

Despite the use of desert tan parts, this kit represents a very early-war machine when German combat vehicles were produced in a variety of colors as long as they were all Panzer Gray. Markings are provided for a German Army vehicle bearing the license plate number of WH and otherwise generic markings. This is another nice preview of the generic Sd.

This kit is quite distinctive with that huge Flak gun on the truck platform and the detailing of the truck and gun will be evident with some good painting, shading, and weathering techniques. The twin axle stubs can then be fitted to the mounting and these have a long and shorter axle and you should ensure the longer axle is at the rear of each station. At the front are additional steering linkages and these are designed to be glued in place and negate the movable axle stubs but do allow you to position the wheels at an angle should you wish a bit of animation.

As the linkages are fairly sizable it would be an easy task to add small pins and drill corresponding holes should you want to make the linkages movable for fully steerable front wheels? Added to the top of the fender cross section is the three part radiator housing with separate top filler cap and rear radiator insert, there is also etched radiator mesh added inside the radiator insert but this was too big to fit and needed the diameter reduced with careful filing until it fitted better.

The engine firewall is designed to slip in between the drive sprocket fenders attached to the hull top deck just behind the engine air cleaners while at the same time feeding the steering column through the hole in the firewall, this is quite a tricky process as there is not a lot of room to manoeuvre. There is also a delicate etched steering column brace added between the column and the firewall and attaching the column to the firewall also makes it a lot easier to fit the brace before you fit the firewall to the chassis, making life a lot easier all around.

The armoured engine compartment is made up of five flat plates with separate cooling panels with separate grab handles on the sides; all the panels fit neatly together without any problems. The head lights are in plastic with etched housings that need to be carefully bent to shape using an appropriate sized drill bit as a former for the top bend to get and even bend. The front flap can be assembled open of closed as required with the inside light and mounting post attached using cyanoacrylate before fitting to the front hull.

I needed to file some metal from the back corner of the right hand light to clear the fender but test fitting will determine if any adjustment is needed. Etched steps are also added between the front and rear side fenders and the outer edge has to be bent to form a rounded curve and care is needed to get the bend in the right position before fitting. Pioneer tools are added to the cab fenders and cab sides with the axe and shovel having moulded on clips while the five part jack has separate attachment clips although these would be better represented in etched brass with plenty of detail sets available with jack clips.

The top etched rack is held in place with small pins on the box fitting into corresponding holes in the etched frames and these fit well for a positive fit. The wicker 88 ammo cases are in two halves with a side join seam but this is not that noticeable due to the wicker texturing, the cases have separate tops but are not designed to show open with the rack holding five ammo cases.

If you wanted to build the cases open you would need to thin down the insides considerably to allow shell cases to fit, not an impossible task. Finally there is the large pedestal gun mounting fitted to the centre of the rear deck, note the locating holes are not symmetric so just turn the pedestal until the holes line up with the pedestal pins.

The main barrel gives you a choice of split plastic barrel or in tunned aluminium with fine rifling included inside the muzzle. The metal barrel would be the obvious choice and this is trapped between a three part breech with separate three part breech block.

There are other smaller details added to the breech assembly including the breech lever that should be positioned in accordance with the breech block when open or closed. There is a small bracket part J47 added to the side of the barrel tube and you need to cut off the locating pins when fitting to the metal barrel and just glue with cyanoacrylate and you can use the plastic barrel as guide to the right position for the bracket.

The gun cradle is in two halves with the elevation arc trapped between them and includes nice details on the outside and inside rib details at the rear but there are a few shallow pin marks and quite large plastic nodes to be removed from the inside which can be quite awkward and care will be needed not to damage the rib details. The forward section of the slide has separate bolt strips either side for a good appearance along with a separate front brake cylinder.

The recuperator cylinder support is in two halves with again separate bolt strips for the support base for good definition while the main recuperator is a central metal tube ensuring it is perfectly round with plastic front and rear sections plus the front support arms and this assembly fits snugly to the top of the recuperator supports and the arms to the gun cradle. The barrel assembly can be slid into the lower cradle without glue to enable this is recoil back and forth after assembly as well as depicting the correct detail with the added lower slide strips.

At the rear of the cradle is a delicate folding ammo loading tray which you have the choice of fitting raised or lowered, care is needed assembling the cradle due to the small parts but nothing too difficult. The square gun base is easily assembled with the larger parts fitting perfectly although care is needed with some of the smaller parts to get the best fit. The two large top carriage sides having nice bolt head details on the outsides but there are some shallow pin ejector marks to be removed from the inside faces while all of the carriage accessories are separate parts for excellent detail definition and there are separate shield supports for fitting the large shield.

Fine chain is provided for added detail but this is a little over scale in appearance. The right carriage side has multiple details including, note the gun usually has both the traverse and elevation hand wheels and the azimuth and elevation data indicator dials but the the kit only has the single hand wheel and just the elevation data indicator dial and some images of destroyed vehicles show there are two hand wheels although not in the usual position.

The elevation data indicator has a fine etched dial face for excellent detail along with the rear quadrant scale which has fine gradients included on the part and a separate indicator arm and linkage to the main gun sight. This sight is made up of 13 very small plastic and 1 etched part for a very intricate assembly that needs care to ensure all the small parts are aligned correctly as you fit them, the instructions are not that clear with some of these so take care.

The larger multi-part mountings for the hand wheels go together well and the kit also includes a three part etched chain assembly fitted between the hand wheel mountings. The etched chain is in two halves giving link texture on both sides and care is needed when sandwiching the two chain sections together, the two part central mounting frame has to be carefully bent to shape and two very small plastic pullies are trapped between the frame and chains during final assembly with the chain ends fitted to the hand wheel mountings and the frame to the lower carriage.

This all sounds quite complicated and it is in a way but if care and patience is used a very delicate and detailed sub-assembly results adding excellent detail to the overall appearance. The two large recoil cylinders that extend out the front of the lower carriage are made up of four part plastic parts and outer metal tubes. When gluing the cylinder halves together the central piston should only be glued between the front cylinders halves parts H43, H46 leaving the rear cylinder parts H2, H3 free to move along the piston.

The brass tubes fit over the front cylinders and glue to the rear cylinders only but I needed to reduce the diameter of the plastic cylinders a little to allow the tubes to fit allowing the plastic cylinders to slide inside the brass tubes.

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Feedback on dawngrocerystore from others who bought this item. Positive Feedback. See all. Ratings and reviews Write a review. Most relevant reviews. Great Great X Previous image. Good kit An interesting subject well delivered , but requires patience. X Previous image. Assembly of the engine is straightforward without any problems and like any engine additional detailing can be added to make a standout engine if being displayed on the finished model.

The two long exhaust pipes are in multiple parts and added after the chassis has been assembled. The drive sprockets are sized correctly and have a separate drive roller teeth discs and central hub cap with textured etched strips for the footsteps but there are a few issues with the sprockets. First is the drive teeth rollers are not offset as they should be.

The rollers on all German half-tracks were offset towards the front left and right sides of the flat track pad section of the sprocket to allow the roller to intermesh with the tracks correctly. Again this is quite noticeable given the size of the sprockets but it is very easy to fix by just cutting off the locating tabs on the inside of the separate tooth rings parts B22 and fit with the rollers aligned correctly for the right and left side sprockets.

The second is the sprocket ribs extend out to the edge of the rim but period photos clearly show the ribs sit on the inner edge of the outer rim leaving a smooth rim around the sprocket and to fix this would take a far bit of effort to remove and reposition the ribs. The other sprocket sub-assembly tooth ring and outer sprocket half is then attached to the inner sprocket half and the full assembly can be added to the chassis.

The road wheels are sized correctly and have the rim and hub details quite nicely done, the rim bolts could be a little more defined but that is probably nit-picking, the idlers also include the inner tooth rods as they should do and overall the wheels are nicely done.

The individual link workable track is broken down in the usual manner for German Half Track kits with the track link and separate rubber pad that traps the pins from the previous link during assembly to form the workable track runs. The rubber pad sections also include part of the track rib on either end of the pad to give a good definition to the links but you need to take care not to damage these extensions while removing the pads from the sprues.

One small issue is the pitch length and each kink is fractionally too short, this results in 56 links required for each track run when the actual vehicle used 55 links per side, the difference of one track link is something you wouldn't loose sleep over at the end of the day. The assembled track runs articulate well and fit perfectly around the sprockets providing you made the minor alterations when fitting the tooth roller rings as above.

The springs are trapped between the two mountings frames parts B7,B9 with the large A frame brace added to the rear of the axle and the steering arms attached to the small mounting brackets, just make sure the glue on the brackets parts D16 is completely dry before fitting the steering rod part B The chassis has the two large side beams separate joined together by the two transmission support beams, the large rear bulkhead with multi-part towing hitch assembly and the front axle sub-assembly.

There are additional smaller mounting beams for the winch motor, the three compressed air tanks and rear mounted ammo box rack and all these have to be fitted between the chassis frames in the one operation ensuring the chassis is perfectly square and level without any warping before the glue dries. I found the two transmission cross beams and the rear towing bulkhead gave a good solid join which was nicely square in the first place so the alignment was good to start with.

The bogie leaf springs are added to the chassis sides and again the springs are in two halves to give clean side detail and are easily fitted to the chassis mountings along with the rear idler spring and adjustment arm, the instructions also show to fit the front steering column to the chassis but this is best left off and attached to the engine firewall instead for easier assembly, but more on this below.

The two large multi-part axle mounting sub-assemblies fit together well but you must ensure all the parts are fitted square and evenly spaced as some of the mating surfaces are not that even and can result in the side axle mountings sitting at an angle if not careful. These large sub-assemblies fit snugly to the chassis frame with the leaf spring ends locating on the ends of the assembly arms for a robust assembly.

The twin axle stubs can then be fitted to the mounting and these have a long and shorter axle and you should ensure the longer axle is at the rear of each station. At the front are additional steering linkages and these are designed to be glued in place and negate the movable axle stubs but do allow you to position the wheels at an angle should you wish a bit of animation.

As the linkages are fairly sizable it would be an easy task to add small pins and drill corresponding holes should you want to make the linkages movable for fully steerable front wheels? Added to the top of the fender cross section is the three part radiator housing with separate top filler cap and rear radiator insert, there is also etched radiator mesh added inside the radiator insert but this was too big to fit and needed the diameter reduced with careful filing until it fitted better.

The engine firewall is designed to slip in between the drive sprocket fenders attached to the hull top deck just behind the engine air cleaners while at the same time feeding the steering column through the hole in the firewall, this is quite a tricky process as there is not a lot of room to manoeuvre.

There is also a delicate etched steering column brace added between the column and the firewall and attaching the column to the firewall also makes it a lot easier to fit the brace before you fit the firewall to the chassis, making life a lot easier all around. The armoured engine compartment is made up of five flat plates with separate cooling panels with separate grab handles on the sides; all the panels fit neatly together without any problems.

The head lights are in plastic with etched housings that need to be carefully bent to shape using an appropriate sized drill bit as a former for the top bend to get and even bend. The front flap can be assembled open of closed as required with the inside light and mounting post attached using cyanoacrylate before fitting to the front hull. I needed to file some metal from the back corner of the right hand light to clear the fender but test fitting will determine if any adjustment is needed. Etched steps are also added between the front and rear side fenders and the outer edge has to be bent to form a rounded curve and care is needed to get the bend in the right position before fitting.

Pioneer tools are added to the cab fenders and cab sides with the axe and shovel having moulded on clips while the five part jack has separate attachment clips although these would be better represented in etched brass with plenty of detail sets available with jack clips. The top etched rack is held in place with small pins on the box fitting into corresponding holes in the etched frames and these fit well for a positive fit.

The wicker 88 ammo cases are in two halves with a side join seam but this is not that noticeable due to the wicker texturing, the cases have separate tops but are not designed to show open with the rack holding five ammo cases. If you wanted to build the cases open you would need to thin down the insides considerably to allow shell cases to fit, not an impossible task.

Finally there is the large pedestal gun mounting fitted to the centre of the rear deck, note the locating holes are not symmetric so just turn the pedestal until the holes line up with the pedestal pins. The main barrel gives you a choice of split plastic barrel or in tunned aluminium with fine rifling included inside the muzzle.